Kosher wines worth toasting

The Passover seder dinner on Wednesday launches a weeklongfestival recalling the liberation of the Jews from Egyptian bondage.During the dinner, in which a rich array of foods is consumed, thecelebrants are obligated to drink kosher wine at four points duringthe symbol-filled meal.

Today during this ritual participants can celebrate anadditional liberation - freedom from syrupy sweet, Concordgrape-jellylike kosher wines with the backbone of a banana. For noweveryone, Jewish or not, can enjoy some world-class wines that justhappen to be kosher.

Because Concord grapes were pretty much the only grapes thatflourished in the Eastern United States, where many Jews settled,this was the grape used to make kosher wine, which was sweetened tocover the jammy texture of the grape.

The old-fashioned kosher wines often had a boiled taste andlacked both weight and finish. Ancient Jewish religious authoritiesrequired boiling wines to purposely make them inferior to otherwines.

At the opposite end of the spectrum are the new wines made fromvarietals such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon,Gamay Beaujolais and Pinot Noir. These wines are winning world-widepraise and competitions with non-kosher wines.

Today's technologically advanced kosher wines do not have aboiled taste or thin mouthfeel and finish. Yet these modern winesqualify for certification from the Orthodox Union.

Weinstock Vineyards of Sonoma in the northernmost part of DryCreek Valley produces award winning vintage-dated wines. WeinstockCellars 1988 Sonoma County Reserve Blanc ($6.50) is figgy, herbal,silver-colored and 100 percent Chenin Blanc. The slightly pricklymouthfeel is the result of the cold bottling process used. Asexplained by winemaker Rick Mafit, carbon dioxide is more soluble atlower temperatures. It will come out (bubble up a bit) when the wineis less cold. This characteristic is very refreshing.

Weinstock 1988 Chardonnay Alexander Valley ($7) is silky, palegold, melony and very crisp and clean.

Weinstock 1988 Gamay Beaujolais ($6.50) tastes like a dry yetfruity cherry wine, so fresh and young. Don't overchill it or you'llmute the fruit.

Domaine de Baron Jaquab de Herzog 1988 White Gamay ($6) is palesalmon-colored with an off-dry cherry and berry taste. It resemblesa white Zin but is not so sweet.

Domaine de Baron Jaquab de Herzog 1988 Naturally Sweet SonomaGewurztraminer ($7) is spritzy with a figgy and flowery nose and ripe banana and nutmeg taste. The fresh, ripe fruit flavor can beattributed to a small amount of grape juice added just beforebottling.

From Napa come Hagafen Kosher wines. The 1988 JohannisbergRiesling ($8.75) is light-bodied, pleasantly sweet and tastes ofpineapple, melon and banana all at the same time.

Hagafen 1988 Pinot Noir Blanc ($6) is a very spritzy, slightlysweet and cherry-flavored blush.

There are some elegant French kosher wines that are moreexpensive but worth the price. Domaine de Ropito Mignon 1987Meursault Les Forges ($45.95) is silky and floral with an endlessfruity finish.

Domaine de Ropito Mignon 1987 Cotes de Beaune ($22.95) is avelvety Pinot Noir, rich with cherry and mace flavors. The nose isso fruity you could eat it.

If you like Bordeaux don't pass up Chateau Les Hauts De Brame1986 St. Estephe ($19.95). Although some St. Estephe wines may be abit too aggressive, this beefy, cheesy-nosed, berry-flavored wine isnot.

Haut Medoc des Barons Edmond and Benjamin de Rothschild 1987($24.95) is earthy and garnet - classic Medoc. Give the wine time toopen in your glass.

Wean your friends off white Zin with Le Rose de Clarke 1987($21.95) from Edmond de Rothschild. This blush-colored rose is bonedry and crisp yet very fruity.

Finally, here are two unusual non-wine releases that are kosher.Before dinner, offer Kedem Vodka ($11), imported from Jamaica. Afterdinner, serve some chilled Bartenura Hazelnut liqueur ($12) made fromPiedmont hazelnuts and a berry infusion. This smooth, rich,high-octane liqueur tastes like roasted hazelnuts.